How I Fell for a Traditional Taiwanese Performer

 

From Dawan Road to the Erren River: How I Fell for a Taiwanese "Kyoshi Warrior"

Eight years ago, I left Indonesia to study in Taiwan. For a long time, my world revolved around the bustling student life of Yongkang Dawan Road. But recently, a move down south near Chianan University—right by the peaceful Erren River—completely changed my life.

It wasn't just the change of scenery. It was here, on the borders of Tainan in a place called Wanli, that I stumbled upon a piece of living Taiwanese folklore. And, completely unexpectedly, I fell in love.

Meeting Taiwan’s "Kyoshi Warriors"

If you have ever watched Avatar: The Last Airbender, you know the Kyoshi Warriors—fierce, disciplined women who protect their community while wearing striking traditional makeup and armor.

That is exactly who she reminded me of the first time I saw her perform.

She is one of my students, but on that day, she was part of a traditional performance troupe called Su-Lan Jin (素蘭陣). Watching her move with absolute precision, dressed in a beautiful, flowing kimono-like robe while wielding a vibrant blue feathery fan, I was completely mesmerized. She wasn't just dancing; she was carrying an entire history on her shoulders.

The Birthplace of Su-Lan

As I dug deeper into what I had just witnessed, I realized I had accidentally walked into the absolute birthplace of a unique Taiwanese cultural phenomenon.

The Su-Lan Troupe actually originated right here in Wanli back in 1966. Its history is a fascinating cultural crossover:

• The Japanese Connection: In the 1963, a hit movie called Sulan Miss is Getting Married took Taiwan by storm. The theme song adapted its melody from Soran Bushi, a famous Japanese fishermen's folk song from Hokkaido.
• The Taiwanese Translation: The Japanese word Sōran became the Taiwanese name Su-lân (素蘭). The upbeat song tells the story of a man watching his first love marry someone else, with lyrics that mimic the heavy rhythm of palanquin bearers.
• The Living Art: To bring the song to life for local temple festivals, the people of Wanli created a theatrical parade troupe (Din-tao). Because of the song's Japanese roots, the performers wear hybrid Japanese yukatas and dance with fans.

Living on the Edge of History

It feels like fate that my journey through Tainan brought me here. Moving from Yongkang to the Erren River put me right next door to the cradle of this tradition. The Erren River marks the southern border of Tainan, and its northern banks lead straight into Wanli, where locals first formed this troupe for the historic Wannian Temple (萬年殿) festivals.

Falling for a traditional performer is a beautiful, cinematic experience, but it comes with a deep respect for her craft. These girls spend grueling hours practicing under the blazing sun, keeping a beautiful folk tradition alive through sheer dedication and sweat.

I started this journey just as an international student looking for a degree. Now, I find myself captivated by Taiwan’s deep-rooted temple culture—and by a girl who dances with a blue feather fan.

Nina - my Suki